Looking for a new power supply for your K40 laser machine? Check out Cloudray Laser!

This guide will help you identify and solve most problems with your laser machine not firing the laser beam.

Make sure your K40 turns on and homes to zero position.
If it doesn´t, check the fuse in the rear power connector before continuing.

Step 1

Turn on your machine.
Open the lid on your panel and push the test-button located on your power supply

This is good, your PSU and laser tube is healthy and working.

Go to Step 2

The most common problem when the machine is firing with low power, and mA-meter showing 2-5mA no matter what power setting is set – the flyback transformer is often the issue.
This part is avalible at ebay, aliexpress or in our store. Make sure to visually identify your type of rectifier before ordering one.

If you want to step your game up a bit – upgrading to a HY-T50 is a good upgrade, this PSU does not have the issues the K40 power supply has.
Avalible on amazon, ebay and aliexpress.

You have a issue with your PSU or laser tube.
If you do not get any movement on the mA-meter at all its probably the tube.
If you get a small movement on the mA-meter, 3-4-5mA – it´s most likely your PSU.

The flyback transformer might be the issue but there is no guarantee it will solve your problems.
I suggest upgrading to a HY-T50 instead of buying a new K40 power supply (not sold by us).

This guide cannot identify exactly your problem any closer than this.

Things to try:
– Make sure you have grounded the machine properly – see this article
– Check all internal connections for breaks, bad crimps or loose cables.

Step 2

Turn on your machine.
Push the test-button on your panel, and/or through the software you are using with your machine.

Great – you don´t have a issue with your machine 😉
You probably have a issue with the protect function of the power supply.

Try this:
– Put a bridge or small cable between P+ and P-(gnd) and test the machine again. If it fires it´s whatever security solution connected to these pins that are your problem.
Often a flow sensor is connected, inspect it and sometimes it can be adjusted to allow for less flow/pressure.

Check this picture for pinouts

If you have upgraded your controller:
Make sure the power supply, any extra 24V power supply and the controller is grounded to the same point, often the ground bolt in the back of the machine.
You can also put a small cable between the laser PSU ground to the screw terminal ground on the Cohesion3D controller.
Same solution with other controllers, make sure they are grounded on the same spot.

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firstly thank you for this great site, its one of the reasons I felt comfortable buying this machine over a more expensive option!

my machine is only firing via the test switch on the power supply, this would imply that there is a safety system stopping the tube from firing through its usual method.

It seems my particular K40 does not have a flow sensor at all and has the type 1 power supply above.

If I wanted to add a flow sensor would I install It to P+ and GND? (Is this essentially the Water protect connection?)

in the mean time is it safe to just bridge the system with a standard jumper board wire?


Hello, I just got my k40 and did a cohesion board upgrade to use lightburn on a Mac.

I have everything set up properly (to my knowledge) but the laser only fires when using the control panel button, and it will fire in light burn if I depress the little red bypass switch on the psu. I don’t seem to have a water flow switch, and all my other tinkering with the installed items doesn’t make a difference in operation.

Is the only solution to put a jumper wire from the occupied GND to the adjacent unoccupied P+ on the PSU style 2?


This site is great – certainly gave me some things to look for.
I have been given an upgraded K40, with an HY-T50.
When pressing the test button, with the “IN” voltage at anything above 1.3V (set by the potentiometer), the current meter goes over 30mA(hits the end of the meter), the tube generates a pink plasma, but doesn’t lase.

This setup has sat in someone’s garage for a period of time, and both the Power supply and the tube have less than 10 hours runtime on them (according to the previous owner).

My question is – is the fault more likely to be with the PSU, the tube, or something else?

Edit – and is there anything else I could try to narrow it down some more?

Last edited 2 years ago by Rob

Thank you HP – I connected my DMM in place of the ammeter, and found that the test button on the PSU does use the IN voltage, as well as the test fire button.
When I had this in place, it did not misfire as much, but sat quite happily at 17.5mA – with a nice pink/purple plasma down the centre of the tube – I can’t tell that it is laseing though – a piece of paper placed before the first mirror showed no signs.

However, occasionally, the plasma will arc to the outside of the tube, and the PSU will make a squeal/fizz. I didn’t catch this reading on the DMM, but this is when the Analogue meter hits the endstops.


I’d just like to say that a new tube *did* solve the issues, Thank you!


Hi I am in desperate need for an exhaust fan upgrade when I cut acrylic I’m basically dying slowly from all the fumes and smell that comes from it do I have any suggestions on what to do or buy?


Cant seem to find the exhaust fan on biltema so I have any link or alternatives

Quint notschaele

My question actually is why does my k40 give higher mA when test firing compared to running a program with the mA knob in the same place

Quint notschaele

Ok 1last question , can I put tape around the knob, test fire it at different mA, write down the mA value on the tape and use that to know what mA I’m running the job with?

Quint notschaele

Hi so i have finally grounded the machine properly and it’s working now. I do have another problem now wich I don’t know if it should be like that but when I’m trying to engrave slate coasters i can’t seem to control the mA it just does whatever it wants anyway sometimes and then it spikes upp and then down and simply does this all the time , why can’t I have a consistant power? I try to have it at 5-9mA but it does what it wants, turning the knob adjusts it only sometimes. I appreciate the help


Hi so i bought my first ever laser and I’ve been googling everywhere on what and how I can solve the problem.
Im having a constant flow of current through the whole chassi , like static and tingeling when touching the metal frame. It won’t stop iether its a constant thing so holding the frame for 6minutes gives u that tingeling/static feeling for the entire 6minutes.

I need help plz


Alright I will check that out, I was almost certain I have grounded outlets. I also do change the ground bolt just like the images and scraped to the bare metal. So I’m almost certain it has something to do with my outlet


Hi. Maybe you can help me out. I have a k40 doing something odd. Mine is a older one so I just have a digital % setting. Up to about 20% it engraves. Going past 20% you lose any beam, kinda it still does a little of the outline of like a letter for example but not the inside.

As you can see from the photo. It starts at 15%, moves up to 30%, then back to 15%, then back up. But the higher you go the less you get. 30% might still get faint edges, but 40% & up gets nothing.Using the test button on the PSU gives same results. Below 20% you get a dot, above nothing.

Mine has a model A PSU. There is a beam in the tube. I’m stuck on if it’s the tube or PSU. Thanks.


Thanks. I’ll look into setting up a tester between the negative wire coming off the tube & where it connects to the PSU to see what mA reading I get.

Flow meter is bypassed. It’s the 2 pin connection to the right of the test button. But it’s not going on-off-on-off. It’s the beam slowly goes away as you increase power.

In that photo it’s not a constant power. The top is about 15%, then I upped the power using the panel to 35% (missing part), then turn it back down to 15% (started marking again).

So I guess what I’m asking is if the tube is going out will it still mark at lower powers but the beam get “weaker” as power increases. Or is the PSU HVT able to produce some mA at low power settings (5%-20%), but failing as you Raise the power up resulting in no beam at about 30% power & up. This is at the end of the tube also. 15% mark on tape at first mirror, 35% no mark on tape. Thank you.


Hello first of all thank you for your amazing work.
It seems that I am in the case where I have to put a bridge or a cable between P+ and P-.
I don’t have much knowledge of electricity. What type of cable should I use?
Thank you in advance for your answer


Okay thank you so much.
At the level of the P- there are two cables, white (top) and pink (bottom).
Which one should I unplug to set up the connection between P+ and P-?


First stop Mr HP you are a legend for answering us.

I tried to find the answer without contacting but nothing.

I got a new vevor K40(my second one).
PROBLEM: No laser beam at all (not even a little at 100%, nothing) even when using the test button. all I can hear is a buzzing sound from the PSU. no light on in the laser.
I cannot see any cracks on the laser tube.

–> I try to figure out if it is the laser tube or the PSU that needs to be changed.

Many Thanks
Beautiful community


thank you very much for your reply. a little spark appears at the top end of the tub when laser power is raised to 80%… and you can see the tunes of the water pomp moving when the laser is activated.
I will change the tube. should I upgrade straightway to a better tube? any recommendation?


I cannot thank you enough mate. a true legend. thanks

willy vercauteren

hello from Belgium
i bought k40 but the tube don’t giving power,(can’t see violet licht in the inner tube) thePSU looks good and i have High voltage on the kathode,The power controlboard works also good, when i go to 20% power, the HV on the tube jump over to the chassis, even with a veri good isolated connection


Hello, laser only fires below 12mA, but only engraves it wont cut any think material.. the light on the tube its like violet? what could it be?


Mirrors look ok, if I put the laser at 15mA it starts firing the degrades to no firing during the job.


also now im hearing an arcing sound coming out the psu


Hello, in 6 months I changed 3 tubes. I used it 25 percent digital and no more than 25 degrees. I asked friends and they told me to put an ammeter and not exceed 20 degrees Celsius on the water. After the third tube I ordered an ampere meter and a new 50 w tube. While waiting for the new tube and ammeter I decided to do a few tests with the old white beam but it works. For I uploaded a multimeter and it turned out that at 25% = 4ma 35% = 7ma 45% 11ma but at 35% or 7ma I have a beam that reaches the bed at 45% or 11ma does not come out of the tube to mirror 1. Only at 25% or 4ma I have a sound of electricity in the power supply. The question is because of the power supply do the pipes burn and can I put a 50w pipe on a 40w power supply


Hello, I’ve used my laser for about 2 years now with no issues but I mostly cut fabric or EVA foam. Today I tried to but wood and it cut the test piece twice but then the laser slowly went away and now no longer fires at all. There’s no test fire…
Do you think it’s the tube? Could the water have been too cold and the laser too hot?

Last edited 2 years ago by Jordyn

I have a K40. I was using it to cut hardboard. It work very well for the first 5 hours and then in the middle of the job it just stopped firing. I have done tests.and it won’t fire. I replaced the tube because it wasn’t glowing but after the new tube was attached it also doesn’t glow. Could this be the Power Supply or something else.


Hi,i bought some days ago a laser k40..While i was engraving a photo it made a warning sound and stopped firing..Now it doesn’t work at all…The mA-meter also doesn’t work when i push the test button..Also the tube doesn’t firing..Do you have any ideas??


Is that normal??i used it only two times and then the laser stopped..first time i used it for align the mirrors and the second time was when i started to engrave…

Last edited 2 years ago by Nikol

I talked to him..he told me to do some things and i sent him also some videos..When he released that the machine has a problem and it came to me like this he stopped answer to me…Now i don’t know what to do…I’m new and i don’t know how to solve this problem…


No…it doesn’t have purple glow inside….


Hi…i changed the laser tube but still doesn’t work….


Hi just trying to set up my new laser and align mirror. I can hear a buzz when i use the test fire and the fire from the power supply, no laser on my paper though.


Hello. I get my k40 yesterday. I do all the recomendations and I calibrate my mirrors. Everything seems ok. But today I try my first cut. But the laser don’t cut with the software. I push the test button and the laser works perfectly. But corellaser or laserdrw just move the axis, but no laser appears. During the progress I have the pendrive key plugged to the computer. Thanks for your time.


First of all, thank you for your time.
When I wrote the first time it was because I could not find the fault. I followed the article but nothing. I searched and searched until someone advised me to re-tighten all the connectors. I there it was. A connector on the nano M2 was incorrectly plugged from factory, even with glue. I cleaned, plugged in, and everything was ok!
Thank you very much!

Chris Battye

Hi there,
I recently bought a second hand K40 which was supposed to be working ok. When I’ve come to set up the mirrors I’ve come across a problem. After about 10 test fires it started making a squeaking noise and the laser longer seemed to fire. I’ve placed laser card in front of the tube and don’t seem to get anything. Any ideas?
Thanks Chris


First off, thanks for being so nice by helping everyone.
I have a K40 laser with the front analog controls. When turning on the power, the machine homes, and the green LED on the power supply board lights up but I cannot get the laser to fire at all. I have tried pressing the “test switch” on the outside panel and pressing the test button on the power supply board which both makes the red “L” Led light up on the power supply plus a red light on the programming board light up but no laser.

My power supply has the 3 green connectors. I confirmed the two first wires on the 2nd connector from the left have continuity with each other as well as the 3rd and 4th wires when I press the test switch.
Do you have any ideas?


I don’t get a beam or buzzing sound when pushing the test button.

I do have a mA-meter and it didn’t show anything regardless of what what I set the current dial at.

I also took both wires off the laser tube and wrapped them around a tooth pick about a half an inch apart and no arc happened when pressing the test switch on the outside panel or on the PSU.

Do you have any other ideas?


The rectifier visually looks great.

The fuse looks good and I’m getting continuity through it.

I attached a pic as well.


I tried removing all cables except input power and still nothing happened.

If i upgrade to the HY-T50, do I still keep the big green resistor hooked up or remove it?

Wes Hill

First, great site and thanks for the wealth of knowledge and being so helpful!

I have a K40 in stock form that is very low on output. I replaced the power supply (as you mentioned) but I still have the low output issue. Its less than 1 mA when using the test button on the PSU (I assume this bypasses the control panel and gives full output).

Any ideas?


Hey, I have a blue 50w. It test fires fine. But will not engrave or cut even acrylic. It used to handle this material just fine. Orion motor tech said it was lightburn. I switched to rdworks. Changed to a new tube. My etching is so faint, even at slower speeds and higher power. The test fire works fine. Any ideas?


My machine is engraving but suddenly it started to go lighter and lighter and now I can barely see what’s doing

Fabi B

Hello, maybe someone can help me… I have a adjustable table (for the right focus) and the mirrors were set with the ADC Method. It all Works fine but the laser cant cut anything. 3mm/s and 12mA and 5 turns – no cut trough the material ( 3mm Poplar). The laser only cut ca. 1mm deep inside the wood and then all the other rounds nothing happend.


Thanks for this guide, it made me find my problem. For me it was the door switch which was badly adjusted and not was not pressed when the lid was closed. Hope this can help anyone having a similar problem.


Hi. I’m having an issue with my K40 laser not firing. I got it a few months back but only just set it up. The test button on the power supply and it works but nothing else. I am no expert in lasers at all but everything seems to be screwed in correctly and nothing loose. I have attached a photo if this helps. Any advice would be apricated (dumb it down if you can) 😀


Hello there! After changing the tube, upgraded the psu the machine cut like never before but…dunno why, it just cuts but not engrave! What the hell could be this time?? 😀  Thank you 




When I try to engrave, the laser head start to move fast in loop from R to L, firing until I stop the the machine.
Here my wiring to spot if I messed up something

WIRING T50.jpg

1) removed TL + WP bridge = nothing changed
2) removed TL + WP bridge and added bridge  between WP and G = it works BUT I cannot control laser power, the display is OFF


win! it was a wrong wiring…thank you mate! Can I offer you a beer? Do you have a tip jar?


Had a laser stop working mid engrave, figured it was the power supply so I changed it out but nothing. Changed out the laser tube and nothing. Put a jumper across the connection for the flow detecter nothing. I’ve checked all my ground wires can’t find any issues. Everything seems to work and be in working order but the laser will not fire.


Hello, K40 all aligned and laser firing onto all mirrors but nothing coming out the cutting head. Take the cutting head out and test fire – all works – put the head on again and nothing – HELP


Thank you for replying. I have reverse aligned using a adaptor and laser. The laser fires center on the laser head mirror. Taped it on all mirrors and marks clear center. Yet not firing through the head. Head inspected for blockage and none found. Lens good. The laser has been used less than an hour. Switched out the Nano for a C3D and running Lightburn.


My K40 will only fire if the potentiometer is turned to maximum. I’ve metered the potentiometer and I get a smooth 0-5V as I turn it up so I don’t think that’s the issue. Any suggestions?


If I hold the test button down and start the power at 0 the meter does nothing and I get no fire. As I increase to near max power the laser suddenly fires and the meter reads 22.


I get the pink light but only when I finally turn the pot up enough for the laser to fire. Once it fires it cuts but I can’t control the power. If I try to dial it down it just stops firing. There is no adjustment. Seems like it’s full or nothing. Trying to figure out what to replace first. Tube or power supply. Maybe both?


This is strange. The PSU test button seems to work the same as the control panel test button. The laser will still only fire if the pot is turned to max…even though it’s supposed to bypass the pot.

Jonathan James

Please can you help me, im almost certain it’s a flyback issue it will literally only let me have 2,3 or 4 ma, but the laser will still penetrant 3mm mdf with just a short 2 second blast at like 3ma


Starting today i have a verry strange problem with my laser.
When the beem hit first mirror It take a rotund shape but with a empty middle, in the middle the beem seems to have no power, all the lens ar verry clean, What i must do?


Thank you for replay.
This tube have 200_250h is not so old, lens inside tube is clean… i have try with 50% and i have the same result and a verry bad one in final product.
Also i noticed beep coming from source When i engrave.


I bought K40 less then two weaks sgo.
Laser won cut. Alignment of the mirrors is good, focal point is also good. It worked well in the begining, I was able to cut 6 mm plywood with 40% power and now it wont cut 6 mm plywood even with 90% power.
I cleaned lens and mirrors, including laser tube outlet mirror and still haven’t solved the problem. I tried to readjust the height of the table, but it didnt help either.
At 10% power i hear funny sound from power supply. At bigger percentage of power it just burns material without cutting it.

Is there any solution for this? Maybe changing flyback could help?


Thank you very much on really fast answer.
There is sign ‘GBU 610’ on my bridge rectifier and I found out that it can go up to 1000V and 6A so it should be ok.
I will try to replace flyback and hope it fixes this problem.

One more thing about upgrading to a HY-T50 PSU. It wouldn’t cause a problem because my laser tube is 40w, and HY-T50 is for a 50w?


One more thing.
If I upgrade to T50 do I also need to change flyback or T50 has its own flyback included in itself?


Thank you very much.

I ordered T50, mA-meter and 24V, 4A extra PSU.

Next upgrade is probably AK-47 instead of laser tube. ?

Thanks again.


You just red my mind. I was going to ask you how to upgrade to a T50 and 24V external PSU.


Great. I subscribed just now.

Thank you for your work.


T50 just came to my door and i dont know where to start. I am not good with electricity and I dont want to start without you.
Here is photo of my PSU:
Here is photo of my T50: https://ibb.co/dGSgJqJ

Extra 24V PSU is the same that you used in one of your guides.

You said that you are making a guide on how to upgrade to T50 and external PSU and I am stuck without it because anything i find on internet doesn’t seems to help.


Oh, I hope you get better soon.
I will try that.

Thank you for answering and stay healthy.


Hello, I recently bought a power supply from aliexpress, a laser tube from aliexpres connected everything and started checking the operation with the test button from the control panel. It seemed to be fine but after a while there were cracks as if sparks were jumping over, until at some point there was smoke from one controller on the nano board. I ordered a new nano m2 tile along with the control panel and plugged everything together and to my surprise I still heard a crackle every now and then. Moreover, when I changed the old power supply, the same thing happened. I finally insulated the metal parts on the tube and the crackling sound stopped but the laser power is weak. The beam does not reach the last lens and when I increase the power more, it only gets a small dot, on the 1st and 2nd lens the paper tape is nicely burned. And even after holding the test button for a longer time, the laser would stop. I don’t think I can see the plasma beam inside the tube but somehow burns the tape on the lenses

Last edited 3 years ago by Mateusz
Col Max

I have a K40 with digital control … The laser was used for about 5 hours in half a year … It didn’t go over 50% it was mainly used at 35% … Now I have a problem .. the laser has a very weak fire … and only works up to 22% if I walk over no fire … how do I know what my problem is … power supplies or tubes … or maybe something else..
I contacted the seller … but they do not respond ….

Col Max

ok … what do you suggest to improve that laser … and how to install the mA meter and which model do you suggest … if I change the power supply which model do you suggest and how to install it … I currently have 3 connectors …

Col Max

Ok. I’ll do it .. Thanks ?

Woki Lopez

Hi, so I just got my k40 and set everything up and went to test fire and got nothing.

On a hunch I put a piece of tape over my fixed mirror in the back and the laser tube did indeed fire and mark the tape. So does this mean that the mirrors are just terribly out of alignment? Like so out of alignment that the bean is not reaching the laser head?

Also ever time I turn on the machine the gantry moves towards the front of the machine, eventually it will try to keep going and make a grinding noise. Could this be one of the end stops?


Touohkomuk Lopez

Ok, thank you so much. I really hope I can get this going without spending more money…


Hi HP Persson!
I just discovered your page and I am excited! Much information and detailed articles. Thank you!

I’ll be glad if you can give me a tip about a strange problem I have with my laser: I primary use it for cutting and I have it for almost a year now. Everything was good till last week. It works for 4-5 minutes and then while in the middle of the job the laser won’t fire. However the amperometer is working and turning ON and OFF depending on the job. Now the strange part: If I move the potentiometer all the way to 100% (while the machine working) leave it for 10-15 seconds there and returning it to 20% (where it usually works) the laser starts firing again and the machine works fine! However it will work for 3-5 minutes and then again the same problem. I am not sure what is causing it… I use distilled water, the mirrors are aligned. Any ideas?

Thank you in advance!!


Hi! Thank you for your detailed reply. My machine doesn’t have a flow sensor. I tried a bridge as you suggested but nothing happened. Still the same problem. As far as I can tell the cables from that positions lead to the laser switch that works. Also the problem just got weirder. The laser fires at all power percentages but the beam only hits the target when I run the power at 20-30% (that’s 5 to10mA). I thought that there was an arch inside the laser tube when firing but I can’t see anything. Thankfully I have another K40 laser and I can do my work. I have a love/hate relationship with those machines :p . Any comments are appreciated.


OK I tried the bridge but no luck. I can see the amperometer reach around 20mA and the plasma inside the tube but no laser beam exits the tube 🙁 Also I tried changing the potentiometer to a 10-turn 10kohm but again the same thing. The laser beam stops exiting the tube at around 0 to 4mA. Then as I turn the power up the beam exits and the machine works at around 5mA to 8.5mA and upon 8.5 and above no beam exits the tube but I can the see the plasma grow brighter as I increase the power. Concerning the plasma it wiggles a little around the negative ring especially on higher powers. Any other suggestions are really appreciated.


My machine is 1 month old. The first 10 days was the only point. 2 points after 10 days. I bought a new tube and used it successfully. There is no single point problem for 10 days. then again point 2 comes back. Like two commas. What do you think could be breaking the shot? No sleep at night for a long time. I’m tired but I found this blog. I hope you can help. Sorry for my bad english.

Ian Kerry

Hi HP Persson,
Was wondering if you could advise me.
I have just exchanged and inserted a cohesion3d laserboard, upgrading from a Nano. All the lights on the board are doing what they are supposed to do.
When I use lightburn it goes through all the motions of cutting/engraving, but no laser! When I press the test button on the laser it works fine and the ammeter registers, its just when I run the program.
Truly baffled!
Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks.



Had a problem with my k40 laser tube arcing after rastering something, went to the cut command and lost laser power quickly over 2 seconds. Lots of arcing. After investigation, I noticed the laser was arcing inside the case. I had previously thought it was arcing outside of the tube because of a small black spot on the backside of the laser tube, but after putting silicon on it, I retried and seen it was arcing from the anode. I added silicon there and now no fire. I had a lot of condensation and everyone acted like that was a big no-no, but its 85+ degrees out and 90% humidity, 15-20C makes my tube condensate like crazy. any advice on my condensation problem? also, would you guess that the laser tube is just bad instead of being the HVT? laser still has movement, just no power.


Hi HP, I’m posting here because a friend of mine asked me to fix a faulty K40 laser. Basically when I light up the machine the laser head starts aligning bottom-right instead of up-left and the motherboard seems to work fine: the laser doesn’t fire at all even when I press the test button, no fire, no noise, nothing, even the amperometer seems dead. I’m working on, as my friend says, a new power supply but I did a mess so I’m trying to figure out what is wrong.

Is there a way to test if the flyback transformer is working? Which voltage should go to the flyback? Thank you a lot, you are the only one who can help me 🙂

Alex from Italy.


Perfect, I’ll give a try soon. Thanks for your support and compliments for the site 🙂

Sophie Moore

Hi Ive been searching high and low and you have identified the problem!
I bridged my p+ and GND on the PSU (type 2) and my laser fired at last.

Now – i dont have a flow controller anywhere on the machine that I can find, so how do i go about fixing it? Or should I install one?

I have nothing in my k+k- port (PSU type2) and my P+ GND (PSU type 2) plugs into P+ and p- on control board.
I have a JK-K3020

please help, ive been trying for days!


Thanks for this guide. When I test fire the laser both with the test button and the power supply test button there is a clicking but no laser. Do I need to replace both the tube and the power supply. Which would you suggest to do first? Seems a waste, is there anybody who recycles these?


Thanks, I will do this. You mention elsewhere on this site the Hy t50 PSU..can this be used with the k40 or will it be ‘overpowered’? I have the digital readout – yet to install a mAmmeter.


Ok, I have just ordered one, will let you know if it fixes my machine. Thanks